Tutorial Tuesday: PFAFF 4.2, Two New Features To Learn

So your machine is humming along and all of a sudden you're out of bobbin thread.

 Dang it! Why now, when I'm in the middle of chain piecing 40 half-square triangle units?!

Here's your solution:

You no longer have to unthread your machine to rewind a new bobbin (sweet!).

Pull your bobbin out of the bobbin case. Be sure the PFAFF logo remains on top. You'll also see in the background that I have the universal foot on . . . a plastic foot.

 
The PFAFF manual asks that you use a metal foot when filling an empty bobbin the way I'm about to show you, so I selected the 1/4" foot (any metal foot will do).

Pull the spool thread off to the right side (By the way, I'm using Aurifil 50 wt. 100% cotton thread. It's thin, extraordinarily strong, and amazing!) . . . Oh, and be sure your presser foot and needle are raised.

Maneuvering a camera while performing this task can be challenging, but with your left hand, you'll want to guide the thread so that it doesn't leave the stability of the foot (i.e., slip out the front).

Pull the thread up the left-hand opening of the face of your machine. 

Thread it through the first thread guide.

Then, thread it through the second thread guide. 

Double-check that the PFAFF logo is facing up and bring the thread through the opening on the top of your bobbin.

Place your bobbin on the bobbin winding shaft. After I do this, I like to roll the piece of thread I brought through the tip of the bobbin with the thread that connects to the spool to give it some security. Keeping the "rolled" threads between my fingers, I push the bobbin shaft to the right.

I like to hang onto the rolled threads as I press the foot pedal.

 Hang on until its gone through a few rotations on the bobbin to secure the end.

A quick glance down to the faceplate, and you'll see that the thread is perfectly secure (and still in the eye of the needle!).

The screen also shows that your bobbin is winding perfectly.

In a very short time, your bobbin is wound. The bulkiness of the camera didn't allow me to capture this, but you can use the thread cutter to the left of the bobbin to cut the thread and remove the bobbin by first moving the shaft back to the left, then simply pull the bobbin up and off.

Pull the thread out from the thread guides.

Pull the thread down and out of the face of your machine.

Trim the thread, then pull it off to the back and left.

Insert your bobbin. Pull the thread through the guides and pull the long end of your thread through the trimmer.

Replace your bobbin plate and you're ready to roll.

So now we're on to feature number 2 I'd like to share with you today . . .

"How do I move the needle?" and "Why would I want to move my needle?"

Before we tackle those questions, I wanted to make a comment on the programmed stitch length when you turn your machine on. A glance at the screen and you'll see that its 2.5. Personally, I like to stitch with a 2.0 stitch length.

To change your stitch length, simply use the "-" and "+" buttons on the second row to the right of the screen. In the future, when I begin to teach myself how to free-motion quilt (hopefully, in September . . . hope you'll join me), I'll be using a longer stitch length.

About 2 months ago, I was working on a project where I was inserting cording into a seam. Due to time constraints, I was working with what I had on-hand. I attached the Universal foot and found that if I use the top "-" and "+" buttons, I could move the needle either to the left or to the right. The screen starts at "0.00". To move the needle to the right, press the right "+" button.

Pressing once will give you a miniscule .3 move to the right.

But it will go up to a 4.5.

Perfect for sewing covered cording into the pillow I was making. I do believe there is a special foot available for this procedure. However, when I'm on a mission, I just want to get it done. :)

As mentioned, depressing the "-" will allow you to move the needle to the farthest left-side of your Universal foot.

See?

Thanks for hanging out with me. Please comment. Let me know if this was helpful or not. I will be continuing my tutorials next week. I hope you're enjoying your summer. Have a great week!

Tutorial Tuesday: PFAFF quilt expression 4.0, Week 2

Welcome to Week 2 of my PFAFF Tutorial Tuesday. Each week, I'll be showing new features of my PFAFF quilt expression 4.0 sewing machine. The purpose of these tutorials is to familiarize ourselves (self-included!) with the numerous features of this machine.

This week, we're reviewing the remaining buttons in the first section of the sewing machine's face plate. I thought I'd have enough time to also cover the various presser feet and how to achieve a perfect 1/4" seam. However, I'm thinking it may be a bit too much information to share with all we're covering today.

There are five button options to the left of the graphic display screen that we didn't cover in last week's tutorial.

Stitch Restart Button
The first of these last five options is the stitch restart button, shown here (2nd button down on left with  image of arrow pointing left):

If you are working on a project and have to stop in the middle of a stitch, simply press the stitch restart button and you will start sewing at the beginning of the stitch again without having to reset any special settings you've made. This button is a must-have if, for example, you are using a decorative stitch and need to replace your thread in the middle of sewing a motif. The built in stitch restart feature makes it easy to resume right where you left off.

Let's say that you are sewing a decorative stitch and see that you only need one more motif for your project. While sewing the last motif, press this same stitch restart button. The stitch will finish and the machine will then stop after your motif is finished!

Speed Control
The third button down on the left is the speed control button:

The speed control button can come in handy for a variety of reasons. Here are a few for you to consider:

1) If you are a beginning sewer, what better way to learn than to take it slow? Simply press this button until you are comfortable with the given speed and you will learn at a pace that is comfortable for you!

2) Another reason to use this great feature is if you are a beginner when it comes to machine quilting. Using this slow-down feature will allow you to build your confidence without worrying you may accidentally "put the pedal-to-the-metal" and mess up a planned quilting motif.

3) How about this . . . you've just discovered how much you love a quilt block with a curve (i.e., New York Beauty, Drunkard's Path, or a simple circle patch you'd like to sew to your quilt top). If you've never sewn an arc or circle before, slowing your machine down to a comfortable pace will take away your fears and allow you to finish your task with finesse.

Immediate Tie-off
The button on the top right is the immediate tie-off button.

When pressed while sewing, the immediate tie-off button will sew a few tie-off stitches, then automatically stop. What a great feature to have, right? Gosh, I sure wish I had this feature when I was making Amy Butler's Alchemy sample quilt for her booth for Fall Market last year. Making all of those triangles would have gone so much smoother! :)

Presser Foot Up and Extra Lift Toggle
Press the second button down on the right for the presser foot to raise:

Once pressed, the presser foot raises up, like so, to a comfortable height . . . (note: needle is down in this image because I had the 'needle down' button engaged from last week's tutorial. This shows you how the presser foot up button still works, whether your needle is up or down!).

Press the button a second time, and your presser foot will raise to an extra height . . .

This second, higher position will allow you to easily insert and remove bulky projects, such as a sandwiched quilt top. Isn't that fantastic? :)

Presser Foot Down and Pivot Toggle
The final button we're covering this week is the third button down on the right . . .

Since my images on how this button works would simply show the presser foot in the "down" position, I'll share with you that if you press this button a second time, the presser foot will raise to a height where you can pivot your work when needed, then lower automatically when you start sewing again.

Thanks so much for learning these buttons right along with me! Next week, we'll be covering the presser feet, as well as how to achieve a perfect quarter-inch seam!

Please be sure to ask any questions you may have and I'll address them in an upcoming blog.

Tutorial Tuesday: PFAFF quilt expression 4.0, Week 1

Welcome to Week 1 of my PFAFF Tutorial Tuesday. Each week, I'll be showing new features of my PFAFF quilt expression 4.0 sewing machine. The purpose of these tutorials is to familiarize ourselves (self-included!) with the numerous features of this machine.

In this first tutorial, I will show you a few features of my machine that made my decision in choosing this model a no-brainer.

1. I wanted a machine with a large throat space for quilting because this year I plan to teach myself how to machine quilt.

The PFAFF quilt expression 4.0 has a throat space of approx. 10" between the needle on the left, and the wall on the right. Additionally, the space has a height of approx. 4 1/4". This offers an abundance of space compared to a standard sewing machine.

2. The next exciting benefit of this machine is the trademarked PFAFF IDT, or, Integrated Dual Feed. IDT is an optional feature that is extremely easy to use. See the black "arm" that sits behind the needle?

 Be sure to have your presser foot raised, then simply press the IDT arm down and forward toward your presser foot to engage:

To release the IDT, pull the shaft down . . .

 . . . and back to disengage:

The IDT is a feature commonly found on industrial machines. It allows an even feed of fabric from both the top and bottom. In other words, it is like a locking mechanism that allows your presser foot and top fabric to stay in simultaneous motion with your feed dogs and bottom fabric. Why is this so beneficial? Well, it allows you to sew two pieces of fabric together evenly and without shifting (using any type of fabric!) alleviating puckering, and allowing for a smooth, perfect seam.

3. The 3rd feature I'd like to point out is the amount of light provided at both the needle and on the sewing deck.

These lights are bright and illuminate the entire sewing area. You can even replace them yourself! Purchase bulbs from your authorized PFAFF dealer, then use the light bulb remover as instructed under the Maintenance section of your owner's manual to pull out the old and replace with the new.

4. Automatic thread snips are included with the touch of a button.

Directly to the left of the display screen on the front of the machine, you'll see an image of a pair of scissors. When you are finished sewing, press the scissors button to cut the top and bobbin threads. The presser foot and needle will automatically raise when finished so you can easily remove your project.

5. Needle down/up. Pressing the button with the image of a needle in the down-position will illuminate the light to the left of the button . . .

. . . and drop your needle and presser foot down onto your project.

I like using this feature because when you stop sewing, the needle will stop in the down position and holds your project in place while the presser foot automatically raises slightly in case you need to check something. I recently used this feature while adding binding. It came in handy when I got to the corners where I had to pivot the project to continue sewing the next side of the binding in place. Note: You can always tap the foot control to raise or lower the needle.


Tune-in next week when we tackle the rest of the buttons in this first section of the sewing machine face and talk about the presser feet and how to get the perfect quarter-inch seam!

Please be sure to ask any questions you may have and I'll address them in an upcoming blog.

How To Make Fabric Artist Trading Cards, Part II

We left off yesterday ironing the cut collage piece to the batik substrate:

Continue cutting 3 more small pieces from you fusible-backed collage piece.

And give the edges a wave effect . . .

. . . finishing up by ironing the fusible-backed collage pieces to your batik substrates. If you so desire, add a decorative stitch along the wavy edge of the collage pieces. If you like a more textured look to your piece, I'd like to suggest the look of AURIfil's Lana Wool 12 wt. Thread. There are many colors to choose from, and the wool will lend an artistic texture to your finished pieces!

All ATC's should include the name of your piece and your signature, plus any other information you wish to include, such as the date or a dedication of your design. You can sign them when you complete the project, but will need to include a backing for this purpose.

Prepare your backing by selecting a neutral fabric, then cut a strip from it that measures at least 3 1/2" x 10". Additionally, cut a piece of Heat 'n Bond this same size and iron to the back of the fabric strip.

Cut your fusible-backed fabric strip into 4 pieces, 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" and set aside.

 In order to give your ATC's stability, you'll want to add a light weight stabilizer between your top and the backing fabric, making a sandwich similar to how we sandwich a quilt.

Cut a strip of your light-weight stabilizer and a strip of Heat 'n Bond that measures 3 1/2" x 10". 

Iron the Heat 'n Bond to the stabilizer.

Cut your Heat 'n Bond/stabilizer strip into 4 pieces, 2 1/2" x 3 1/2".

 Remove Heat 'n Bond paper from your stabilizer pieces to expose glue and place your collage on top; iron to bond together. Do this to each collage.

Now add the fusible-backed fabric strips: Remove Heat 'n Bond paper from the fusible-backed fabric strips you made earlier and iron the glue-side to the back of the stabilizer. Do this to each collage and trim, if needed.

Using a zig-zag or satin stitch, finish off the edges of your ATC's and sign the backs.

That's it! You've made your first set of Artist Trading Cards!

Everyday blessings,

Susan